Eye Shapes in Makeup Artistry
Understanding the portions of the face and body will lead you to the art of makeup. Mastering the proportions of the face will enable you to create and design any look.
In the well-known Muller-Lyer Illusion, a straight line with flanges pointed outward seems longer than the one with them turned inward. The one tugs the attention beyond the line and seems to lengthen it, the other pulls it center and shortens it. Makeup Artists exploit this effect. For instance, by daubing shadow above the outer ends of the eyes, they draw them further apart. By applying it above the inner corners, they narrow them. (McNeill, 297)
A Makeup Artist will use this principle to compose features that are necessary for the character or beauty makeup. In all areas of makeup, you need to trick the mind as to what is being seen (Figure 1.15).
Everyone has their own unique facial features and characteristics. As in drawing, where you place a shadow or highlight represents what you are visually saying about your makeup. In anatomy, the placement of the skeletal and muscle systems in each individual highlights those unique features.
Eyes can be categorized into six basic shapes:
Even-Set, or Balanced, Eyes: Equals one eye length apart (Figure 1.21). This is the eye shape that is considered the “perfect” one aesthetically. You can do almost anything with the evenset eye, and not be concerned with corrective makeup.
Wide-Set Eyes: Are spaced farther apart than the length of the eye (Figure 1.22). To bring the eyes closer together, place a dark color on the inside inner corner of the eye.
Deep-Set Eyes: Are recessed farther into the eye socket (Figure 1.23). To bring them out, place a lighter-colored shadow on the upper lids. Use medium rather than dark colors in the eye crease. Less is more with this eye shape.
Large Eyes: Will in some cases need to look smaller (Figure 1.24). A large eye conveys surprise and/or shock, which we will cover later in our discussion of facial expression. To make the eye appear smaller, use dark colors on the eyelid and eye crease.
Round Eyes: Can handle most colors (Figure 1.25). The eyeliner will need to be adjusted if you have to make the eye look more almond-shaped. Place eye-shadow color on the eyelid, blending up at the outside corners. You can also place a dark color on the outer top corner.
Small Eyes: Need light-colored shadow to open them up (Figure 1.26). Dark colors will only make them smaller. To give the illusion of a larger eye, use a light color on the eyelid, and medium color in the eye crease. Again, less is more.
Excerpted from The Makeup Artist Handbook 2e by Gretchen Davis & Mindy Hall ©2012 Elsevier Inc. All Rights Reserved